In the background of sandy landscape and sun- dipped skies, the state of Rajasthan shines with vibrant colors, the shines of silver, mirror and valuable stones together with the luster of silk and flamboyant kaleidoscope of the cotton fabric. Striking and brilliant color filled Rajasthan state stands with unique magnificent forts, imperial palaces, sand dukes, lakes, camels and people wearing dazzling colorful costumes.

The inhabitants of Rajasthan prefer to wear dazzling costumes in order to add dart of color and also life to the unproductive, shade less land and dull, cloudless sky. Right from effortless village folk or else tribal belle till the royal function, people favor bright res, lively green, dazzling yellow or else brilliant orange together with a luxurious usage of silver and gold “gota” and ‘zari”.

Right from olden days, the dyers in the state of Rajasthan and nearby Gujarat were pioneers in their craft. The unparalleled efficacy of their work can be easily witnessed in the dress worn by Rajasthani people either poor or rich. Any study on Rajasthan people will get fulfilled only with knowledge of the ornaments and costumes. The costumes worn by people today are the reflection of the earlier costumes. Personality of a man can be easily read by his costumes and can also differentiate them from people coming from other locations.

Both the females and males in Rajasthan dress up in their traditional dress totally influenced by their profession, status, economy and also climate. The conventional costumes are ‘dhoti’, ‘potia’, ‘angrakha’, ‘banda’, ‘bugatari’, ‘khol’, ‘pachewara’, ‘dhabla’ for Hindus, whereas ‘burga’, ‘achkan’, ‘tilak’ are worn by Muslims. These costumes are subjected to speedy change towards ‘salwar’, ‘bushirt’, ‘skirts’, pants and saris respectively.

The head wear of Rajasthani men; Turban is a costume of differential pattern originated from various geographical area tailored to fit the climatic and terrain influence. The entire state of Rajasthan is ruled by bandhni (tie-and-dye) sari and turban. The most common costume for women are Sari or ‘odhani’, ‘Kanchli’ or ‘kunchuki’ or ‘choli’, ‘ghaghra’ or ‘ghaghri’ or ‘lahanga’. High profile women also prefer ‘dupatta’ and ‘patka’.

There is a common usage of sandals or chappals or ‘jutees’. But high profile ladies prefer to wear colorful sandals embedded with golden stars and threads.

The Diverse Attire

Royal Rajasthan Dresses Royal Wardrobe

The luxurious and wealthy costumes of the royal people were designed with a scrupulous care of special professionals who are in charge of royal dresses whereas the ‘Chhapakhana’ and the ‘Ranghkhana’ were the departments taking care of the dyeing and also printing of the fabrics. The department of ‘siwankhana’ took the responsibility for faultless and perfect stitching. The daily and formal costumes of the ruler were taken care by two special departments, the ‘kapaddwadra’ and the ‘toshakhanand’.

Traditional Textiles

The daily wear dress like saris, turbans and odhnis are generally made from fabric by employing block print or the tie-and-dye formula.

Rajput Costumes

The Rajput rulers displaced their close propinquity to Mughal kings in their dress preferring vibrant and best of formals. The rich brocaded material was bought from Gujarat and Banaras, embroidered woven shawls from Kashmir and delicate and soft cotton fabric was purchased at huge price from Dhaka and Chanderi.

Women’s Attire

Odhni

The odhni is of 10 feet long and with a width of five feet. One corner of the odhni is tucked inside the skirt whereas the other corner is taken along the head and also right shoulder. The motifs and colors are specific to their caste, costume type and also occasion. Odhnis were preferred by both the women of Muslims and Hindu.

Pila

A pila is nothing but an odhni with yellow backdrop and red lotus motif at the center. The pila is the traditional gift from parent to their lovable daughter after giving birth to a son. The good hospitable and well dressed women and men add a tint of color to the barren landscape of Rajasthan.

Men Attire

 The turban of Rajasthani men otherwise known as ‘pagari’, ‘sela’, ‘pencha’ or ‘safa’ based on their style and ‘achakan’ or ‘angrakha’ were worn as upper garment together with ‘pyjama’ and ‘dhoti’ as the lower garment constitute the male costume.

Turban styles

There are various styles of turban representing their caste and religion. The varieties are called by different names like ‘safa’ and ‘pagari’. Off course, there are approximately 1000 varieties and styles of turbans prevailing in Rajasthan. Each one represents a particular caste, class and also region of the person wearing the turban. Turbans are also available in various shapes, colors and sizes. In fact, there are special turbans meant for auspicious occasions.

‘Pagari’ is generally 82 feet long and with the width of eight inches. ‘safa’ is broader and shorter. Generally common man prefer turban of single color whereas rich persons prefer to use turban of different colors and designs depending on occasion.

Headgear/ Turbans

The caste and region can be easily traced with turban of varying styles. The varieties are called with various names like ‘safa’ and ‘pagari. There are approximately 1000 varying types and styles of turbans available in Rajasthan. Each one represents a caste, region and also caste of wearer. Turbans are available in various colors, sizes and shapes. There are also special turbans for auspicious occasions.

‘Pagari’ is generally 82 feet in length and with a width of 8 feet. A shorter and broader type is called ‘safa’. Common man prefers single color turban whereas rich people prefer to wear varying colors and designs depending on occasions.

Way of Dressing

Traditional textiles

Daily wear costumes of Rajasthani people like saris, turbans and ‘odhnis’ are generally tailored from fabrics by employing block prints or tie-and-dye formula.

Rajput Costumes

Rajput rulers, because of their close association with the Mughal rulers showcase their vibrant and best of formals. Luxuriously brocaded fabric was bought from Gujarat and Banaras, embroidered woven shawls from Kashmir and soft and comfortable cotton was purchased from Dhaka and Chanderi at huge price.

In the background of sandy landscape and sun- dipped skies, the state of Rajasthan shines with vibrant colors, the shines of silver, mirror and valuable stones together with the luster of silk and flamboyant kaleidoscope of the cotton fabric. Striking and brilliant color filled Rajasthan state stands with unique magnificent forts, imperial palaces, sand dukes, lakes, camels and people wearing dazzling colorful costumes.

The inhabitants of Rajasthan prefer to wear dazzling costumes in order to add dart of color and also life to the unproductive, shade less land and dull, cloudless sky. Right from effortless village folk or else tribal belle till the royal function, people favor bright res, lively green, dazzling yellow or else brilliant orange together with a luxurious usage of silver and gold “gota” and ‘zari”.

Right from olden days, the dyers in the state of Rajasthan and nearby Gujarat were pioneers in their craft. The unparalleled efficacy of their work can be easily witnessed in the dress worn by Rajasthani people either poor or rich. Any study on Rajasthan people will get fulfilled only with knowledge of the ornaments and costumes. The costumes worn by people today are the reflection of the earlier costumes. Personality of a man can be easily read by his costumes and can also differentiate them from people coming from other locations.

Footwear of Rajasthan

The shoes manufactured from camel, goat or sheep skin are called as Jootis or Mojaris. Women and men shoes are designed with soft and delicate embroidery on a brocade or velvet, sticked to the outer surface of shoe.

Accessories of Rajasthan

Rajasthan jewelry’s are distinguishably designed and impregnated with diamonds, emeralds and various other types of precious stones. Rajasthani men generally wear earrings together with pearl necklace or a gold chain or silver Hansli. Also a thick bracelet decorates their necks.

Different jewelry types were preferred by the tribal women of Gayari, Bhil and Meena. Olden days they were seen with brass jewelry, but these days they prefer white or silver metal ornaments. Silver jewelry adorns the women of Raikas and Rabaris from Sirohi. They also make use of various natural elements like leaves, flower, moon, sun etc… on their ornaments. There are also jewelry’s designed of Lac and embroidered with small glass pieces.

An era of modernization can be visualized even in the costume trends of Rajasthani people. Major influence of cinema, television, newspapers, magazines and mainly migration together with urbanization had significantly contributed to the transformation in their traditional wear. It results in considerable change in their renowned culture. However, conventional garments are widely preferred by Rajasthani people where the change has originated harmoniously with their outstanding tradition.