The textiles and Handicrafts of the state of Gujarat have carved a niche for themselves in the arena of all departments of textile manufacturing, whether it designing, dyeing, or texturing. The centuries old skill of the weavers and artisans of Gujarat finds its expression in their products’ rich cultural heritage and artistic personality.

Both traditional and modern products of the state are famous for their immaculate quality and design of textiles, produced by a large variety of textile mills. The resist technique fabrics from patola form the broad spectrum of woven fabrics in Gujarat.

It will be of great interest to note that out of the GDP of India almost 3% is contributed by the textile industries in Gujarat alone. Termed as the Denim Capital of India, the state is also called the Manchester of the East. Besides being the state of having the most flourishing textile industries, Gujarat contributes to a major share of arts and crafts in textiles also.

The ability of Gujarat to produce the finest range the textiles stems from availability of a) skilled labor, and b) plethora of raw materials, c) seamless blend of yarns and d) the use of centuries old traditional techniques and culture. The state has the advantage of a sizable number of population available to engage in this vast vocation. Ahmadabad and Surat together produce more than 50% of the total production of the state. Surat produces more than 90% of the polyester used in India. Arvind, Parag and Praful brands textiles belong to the state of Gujarat state.

Popular Textile Patterns

Bandhej

The tie and dye fabric of Mandvi, Jamnagar and Bhuj is called Bhandej. It is peculiar for design and patterns, used in wedding outfits, called gharchola odhni and saris.

Bandhej, bandhani or simply bandhani is made on superfine cotton mulmul. Muslin along with gold checks and motifs of jamdhani styles are sometimes used along with mulmul.

Tie and Dye of Bandhej fabric

After pinching of the printed portion of the fabric first, they are pushed into small prints and then knotted with 3 or 3 twists of threads, the knotted parts remaining uncolored. First the fabric is dried in the lightest shade first, retied and died in the dark color. The fabric may be tied and dyed many a times, depending upon the number of shades in the final color scheme. The number of times it has to be tied and dyed, the quality of the fabric and the intricacy of the pattern, all will determine the price of the Bandhej.

In case you want to have a piece of Bandhej, kindly walk into Gurjari, the State Govt. Emporium of Gujarat. In actual natural surroundings also you can witness the making the above by paying a visit to a typical village where they are producing this Bandhej.

Matani

Mata is Universal mother Goddess Durga. Matani Pachedi or Mata-ni-Pachedi design, based on Mata is printed by the Vaghris for the ritualistic purposes. A combination of block printing and mordant painting is used for this purpose. Goddess Durga Mata’s form forming the dominating motif is employed in printing.

Like West Bengal, Kali Mata Durga, the symbol of Shakti or strength is also worshipped throughout all over Gujarat. The devotees firmly believe that Goddess will deliver them from all trials and tribulations in life. In the art of Matani the love of mother for her children, full of affection towards her universe is depicted on the one side. At the same time, Her punishing side, where she unleashes anger on Rakshasas bent on destruction of established order of society, are ale clearly printed in image forms. That is how Gujarat is invoking her blessing for prosperity on the plus side and destruction evil and violence on the minus side from Mata.

From the famous way Gujarat is celebrate their Navaratri, the Devi Durga Festival, we can infer their passion for arts, colors and intricate designs and forms. In a way Matani portrays the nature of the hard working nature of the people of Gujarat, skills in various activities combined with an undercurrent of thousands of years of religious faith undiminished to this day, unspoiled by the inroads of western culture.

Ahmedabad is also a major center of mills, where we can find cloth paintings of block printing and Mata cloth paintings. Calico Museum should also not be missed.

Patola

One of the very popular fabrics in India, Patan silk saris point to Gujarat as a land of prosperity and wealth. These unique Patan saris are woven with design of intricate designs of great expertise combines with quality.

The Salvi community hailing from Surat is traditionally expert in weaving these types of Patola saris in Surat. They are having four distinct characteristic patterns – double ikat saris with all over motifs of flowers, parrots, dancing figures and elephants – which are used by the Jains and Hindus alike. Saris with geometric and flowers are liked by Muslim Vora communities and specifically made for them.

In addition to the above, Nari Kunj saris having a plain, dark-colored body and borders with birds and women as borders are specially woven for Maharashtra women Brahmins. For catering to the Far East market markets also, specially woven saris are manufactured. Thus Gujarat weaving communities, for generations have learnt the nuances of pandering to the diverse tastes of the consumers of diverse groups and cultures of not only in India but Far East also.

We have to remember that all these styles are of very unique and developed from a deep understanding of the customer’s requirement in a detailed manner from traditional handlooms. The dyes used are extracted from vegetable resources and basically natural colors. An average 4 to 6 month gestation period is required for one patola sari. A passion for color is conveyed when we see the Gujarat Patola and our heart is full of pride with the accomplishment of our average level artisans of village level of Gujarat. The state’s rich cultural heritage and color and design achievements take our breath away.

For taking stock of Patola saris, we have to look for in Gurjari – the Govt. Emporium – or go to actual villages and meet the villagers engaged in producing Patola.

Embroidery

Gujarat can boast of very fine and varied embroidery collection compared to any other part of India. Nomadic tribes and their settlements in different parts of Gujarat were instrumental in bringing a wide variation of distinct embroidery styles. Kutch in North Western Gujarat and Saurashtra in Western is the hub of the finest embroidery and variety styles.

Folk specimen traditions made by peasant women, with its bold and vigorous colors and patterns form the back bone for the present day embroidery enriching the life of Kutch and Saurashtra of Gujarat.

Boon Turns in to Curse: Cotton Export Ban

Gujarat farmers celebrate high production of cotton crop after a hard stint in the fields with the blessings from God; alas each year, with an anti-farmer policy of Central Government, the boon of high production becomes a curse.

• 2010 – Center imposes Rs 2500 per ton
• 2011 - Center bans cotton Export – for a small period restrictions removed but again
• 2012 - Center bans cotton Export

But the same Central Government encourages Mutton export! by announcing a subsidy on its export in order to usher in a so called ‘pink revolution’

Revolutionizing the Textile Sector: The New Textile Policy

To revitalize the Textile sector of Gujarat, New Textile Policy was envisaged by the Gujarat Government. Including an exemption from VAT (Value-added-Tax) to the extent of 80-100%, the Policy offers a large number of incentives for textile mills and cotton growers. It basically aims at:

Aims at Safeguarding the Interest of Cotton Growers

Better realization of price in national and international markets and

Protecting the farmers from the anti-farmer policies of UPA

Repeatedly Shri Modi has emphasized that cotton farmers of Gujarat should not be at the mercy of arbitrary policies of UPA.

Other aspect of the Textile Policy is developing textile parks for districts growing cotton, to enable rendering help to farmer to manufacture cloth and garment in the state itself. Shri Modi opened a park in Surendra Nagar district for this noble purpose of job creation for youth.

The Unique 5F, the Success Mantra

At the Delhi University’s Sri Ram College of Commerce, Shri Modi unfolded his unique 5Fformula, which electrified the imagination of the assembled there. He explained 5F as incorporated approach to reinforce the value chain

‘Farm to Fabric to Fibre to Fabric to Fashion to Foreign ‘to enhance the sustainable growth of farmers, the students applauded as they never saw a similar dictum in their text books.

The Road Ahead: Technical Textile Segment

Health and Safety, cost effectiveness, durability, high strength, durability, high strength, light weight, versatility, customization, eco friendliness and ease of convenience are the factors behind the popularity of the Technical textiles.

Because of the importance of this technical textiles sector to the overall economy of the state and nation, Gujarat has given appropriate push to this sector in their recent textile policy. In the recently held VGCS policy also, this segment has been covered extensively.

Due to the relentless efforts of Shri Modi, Textile Industry has got a quantum leap and because of his vision, is marching towards a ‘white revolution in cotton.’

In a nutshell, it is due to the vision of Shri Modi that the white revolution has to take place. We can rest assured about his acumen to guide his beaurocrats to ensure that there are no red tapes while accomplishing this stupendous task.