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Mashroo And Himroo

Aurangabad is the pride of Maharashtra today with its great historical value, age old crafts and arts heritage and more. Aurangabad is famous for some of the textile products like Mashru and Himroo. One can see the richness in the craftsmanship and the material used.

The major feature of Mashru and Himroo is that they are made from fabric of silk and cotton and a finished product looks like satin. The silk and cotton are largely grown in Aurangabad district. These are luxurious fabrics mostly made for the royal families and nobles. The Himroo is locally known as ‘Kam Khuab’ which means little dream. The word Mashru meant legal. Mashru was mainly used as an undergarment by ladies previously and is considered cheaper than Himroo fabric.

As per historians, these two arts have a Persian origin. It is believed that this art came to Aurangabad when Muhammed Bin Tuglaq shifted his capital from Delhi to Aurangabad in the 14th century. But the many weavers stayed back in Aurangabad when the emperor shifted his capital back to Delhi. As Mashru and Himroo are very unique and different, these fabrics were much liked by members of royal family and others from the elite families. In the ancient times, the fabrics used to be made from gold and silver and were handmade. Fine and thin threads are used in the weaving which gave the fabric a golden look.

These fabrics are uniquely designed with the bold colours and patterns, as well as they have a peculiar appearance. Their unique designs and patterns are the characteristics of Himroo and Mashru fabrics. The Himroo weavers mainly weaved shawls, veils, bridal saris and more. These fabrics find a special place in the wedding ceremonies even today. In olden days, the weavers used to weave the fabrics with hand, but today they use machines.

Designs and patterns of Mashru and Himroo

Mashru and Himroo are very distinct and peculiar with the use of bold patterns and colours. Originally made with the mix of cotton and silk, gives a look and feel of satin cloth, thus making Himroo a perfect choice for shawls and stoles.

The design patterns used are shapes of hexagons, circle, octagons, ovals and diamonds. Fruit patterns are also used which mainly are of pineapples, almonds and more. Some interlocking patterns are also followed with designs of flowers, animals, leaves are commonly used.

The Making Process of Mashru and Himroo

Mashru and Himroo are the oldest fabrics that are still prevalent in India. These fabrics denote nobility and royalty in olden times.

Mashru weaving process is done by weaving the silk for the wrap and cotton is weaved for weft. The average length of the wrap is 63 yards which is designed as a first phase. Once the weaving of wrap and weft is completed it is dyed by the local dyers. Normally, the one set of the thread reel is dyed at a time. The fabric is washed, folded and beaten with wooden bars when it is still wet. This is done to show the wrap thread clearly. The glazing is given to the fabric with a paste made of wheat flour which is applied to the folds. It is again beaten and pressed with hands. Now, the fabric is ready and at this final stage embroidery works, prints and zari are done.

Himroo is made on a throw shuttle loom using cotton in the wrap and silk in the weft. Here at the very beginning of the weaving the designs are decided and worked with the multiple looms. The weaving is done with the interlacing of weft yarns with the wrap.

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